John Kaminski |
This year’s early warming brings the potential for increased pest pressure and an overall longer season for your pest control strategy. Let’s look at how to ensure a season of green turf.
Now that you’ve selected a fungicide, you can go and spray right? Well, not necessarily.
When discussing strategies for disease control, I simplify the process to thinking about three basic regions for targeting turf pathogens. For foliar diseases like brown patch or dollar spot, I will suggest applying fungicides with a nozzle that will maximize pesticide coverage in moderate water volumes (1 to 2 gallons/1000 sq. ft). It may be helpful to apply these product to dry turf or to remove the dew prior to application. For stembase and crown diseases such as anthracnose, I apply pesticides in moderate to high water volumes (2 to 4 gallons/1000 sq. ft.) and not watering-in. In situations where it is not possible to apply high water volumes, watered-in the products with one or two turns of an irrigation head. Applying pesticides in a drench or watering-in with a significant amount of water is reserved for pests that reside in thatch or soil, such as root Pythium species and several basidiomycetes responsible for fairy ring.
So, should you water these products in to the thatch or soil to get the fungicide to the targeted pathogen? It depends on which product you select. I typically treat these diseases in the “crown” category and recommend application at high water volumes and applying no post-application irrigation. Despite these being root pathogens, much of the damage still occurs close to the surface.
On the other hand, diseases like brown patch are easy to suppress. Curative control when symptoms are first observed is an effective strategy and may lead to fewer apps over the course of a season. Documentation your golf course’s chronic and acute problems will allow you to determine which strategy is right for you. Turf management is not black and white and there are many shades between the two. |
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